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| De-mystifying en Primeur 2016 |
| By Arjun Sachar |
| Come Spring, the Union des Grands Cru de Bordeaux organise their châteaux to lay out barrel samples of the previous year’s harvest, which have been in barrel for just 4-6 months. While it is likely to spend 12-18 months more in barrel, this en primeur tasting is meant to analyse how the current vintage will shape up. Only professionals should (and actually can) taste, because one has to analyse the structure of the wine (body, alcohol, tannins and acidity) and think of how the wine will develop. And benchmarking to a previous year helps a lot. The perceptions will determine the first release prices, just like an IPO on the stock exchange. In the Bordeaux system, the Negociants (merchants) buy the wine when it is in the barrel much before it is bottled, and open themselves upto the speculation (based on demand and supply). |
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Château Pichon Longueville Baron |
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| An outstanding vintage |
| To understand what makes an outstanding vintage, as a student, I have had the privilege of attending a seminar by Denis Dubourdieu, Head of Oenology at Bordeaux University. He has outlined certain critical conditions that are a combination of early flowering and budding in Spring, balanced water stress in July to slow the vigour of vine growth to concentrate on the fruit; dry and warm August that leads to complete maturity of the grape; contrasting day and night temperatures in September to achieve good aromas and flavour levels and harvest in warm weather condition just before rains. |
| “To make great wine, one needs great grapes”, this imperative requirement was outlined by Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier. |
| The 2016 en primeur campaign was shrouded in the grief of the demise of Paul Pontallier of Château Margaux. 2015 had been hailed as classic vintage. I wondered if the power of #5 could hold the tradition of its worthy predecessors (2005, 1995, 1985, 1975, 1955, 1945)? |
| Overall impression |
| According to most winemakers that I had the opportunity to talk to, the 2015 vintage was quite encouraging from the beginning. The cold and wet winter provided ample water reserve which was beneficial for a homogeneous flowering period during the mild spring period and later a hot July. Flowering began early (about the same time as for 2010). Hot conditions benefited from rainfall in August which was perfect for véraison. Following the September showers, the châteaux were lucky to have a week of sunshine and a dry-windy condition that prevented any disease. Merlot was picked mid-September and Cabernet Sauvignon in the first week of October (even if exact dates differ slightly depending on the appellations). |
| The reds |
| For the 2015 vintage, most appellations in Bordeaux came close to achieving the conditions set by Professor Dubourdieu for excellence. Saint Emilion and Pomerol on the right bank further benefited from the cooler soils that restricted the amount of heat stress during a slightly early summer. |
| The wines from the right bank were consistent, balanced with both structure and softness. Shedding any over-ripeness, the wines showed elegance, structure, fine tannin levels with good flavour and length. In some parts of Saint Emilion, it has certainly been the year of Cabernet Franc – for the first time since 1988, Cheval Blanc does not have enough crush of wine that goes to make their second label – Le Petit Cheval. |
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The tasting |
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| On the left bank, the harvest was quite promising with ripe fruit. In Pessac Leognan where more Cabernet Sauvignon is planted than in Graves, some winemakers felt the rains in August brought relief from the very dry spells. As they picked Merlot in Graves, winemakers felt it had similar promise like in Saint Emilion. |
| A big difference in Medoc from previous vintages was that the wines were showing fruit forwardness rather than being over-powered by oak. It remains to be seen if this is a change in strategy of wine-making vis-à-vis critics or an attempt to target an all new section of wine drinkers. |
| Margaux and Saint Estéphe definitely show promise with very elegant tannins, juicy and seductive fruit aromas with a lingering finish. Pauillac was being derided for being slightly diluted but my impression was a bit to the contrary – they have done a fantastic job even after they suffered from some extended rainfall before harvest. |
| My tasting trail |
| Baron Philippe de Rothschild: Mouton Rothschild, d’Armailhac and Clerc Milon had low yields. Each grape variety and each plot were picked at optimum maturity. Post-fermentation and post their own tastings, the technical team feels that the 2015 vintage in Pauillac has the heft and opulence similar to that of 2005. Mouton Rothschild’s blend for 2015 has 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. |
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Baron Philippe de Rothschild and Château Lafite |
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| Château Lafite: A shorter harvest period that lasted 20 days (23 days at Mouton). Intense dark fruits, cedar, and spice on the nose, the wine was well integrated on the palate with beautiful soft and velvety tannins that left an extremely long finish wanting you to go for another sip (and this was the primeur!). Lafite’s blend for 2015 has 9% Merlot and 91% Cabernet Sauvignon. |
| Château du Tertre and Château Giscours: The long harvest period was ideal, enabling harvest of each plot at the optimal ripeness. Alexander Van Beek, Managing Director, puts the special character of the 2015 vintage down to the exceptional weather conditions in Margaux. The exceptional profile achieved presents the personality of the truly great Margaux. du Tertre’s blend for 2015 has 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot. Giscours’ blend for 2015 has 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. |
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| Château Figeac: The vintage is one of the greatest successes for Chateau Figeac, according to Romain Jean-Pierre, Technical Director. Good sunshine in April led to a fast and even vine growth, and the crew preserved the best flower clusters with vine canopy management. The deep-rooted vines ensured sufficient hydration in the high temperatures in July. De-leafing was carefully restarted in September according to the needs of each plot to get maximum exposure. The diurnal temperature in September and October allowed the grapes to reach the optimal phenolic ripeness. A pre-fermentation cold soak for 8 days was followed by a week-long alcoholic fermentation. Merlot was picked between 21st – 25th September; Cabernet Sauvignon between 12th – 14th October; and Cabernet Franc between 5th – 15th October. Figeac’s blend for 2015 has 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Franc. |
| Château Pichon Longueville Baron: Jean René Matignon, Technical Director explained that the Merlot vines located in cooler sections of the estate were more generous than the Cabernet vines which gave relatively small grapes. The grapes were rich in sugar but not excessively, acidity levels were moderate leaving a delicious, juicy fruitiness. Cabernet was picked between 25th September and 9th October and Merlot between 18th - 25th September. The grapes were vinified plot by plot and left the vats by the end of November. Pichon Baron’s blend for 2015 has 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot. |
| Château Angelus: The magnificent castle looked even more beautiful as the sun and clouds played hide-n-seek. Monsieur Hubert de Bouard de Laforest was omni-present discussing the current vintage with guests and managing the tasting set up for the wineries that he consults. Angelus’ blend in 2015 has 62% Merlot and 38% Cabernet Franc, like in 2005 vintage. To maintain elegance and freshness, and to add least sulphur, the wines are aged at 11°C in 100% new oak barrels. Not common for Saint Emilion, Cabernet Franc (not Merlot) accounts for nearly half of the area under plantation at Angelus. I am given to understand that while the life span of Merlot is 15 to 20 years, Cabernet Franc provides the freshness and persistency that allows the blend to age further. |
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| Château La Fleur de Bouard: I managed to chat and taste with Corallie de Bouard, daughter of Hubert de Bouard. She explained the importance and sensitivity of the Cabernet Franc, that helps the wine to age longer and that requires clay content in the soil best between 8% - 20%. La Fleur de Bouard’s blend for 2015 has 82% Merlot, 14% Cabernet France and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Merlot has perfect ripeness levels that brings freshness, an intense dark sweet bouquet sensation and persistency, and yet it is not overripe. I also tasted with her the special cuvee Le Plus which is a 100% Merlot from the very old vines that have an extremely low yield and is aged for 33 months in barrels. |
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| Overall, a great year for Merlot and Cabernet Franc that will certainly bring a lot of smiles to the consumers and collectors of the right bank! The past four vintages have not been great, the 2015 vintage is certainly looking like a comeback vintage. But that can not be a final verdict just yet. |
| Arjun Sachar travelled to Bordeaux, his home away from home, to check out En Primeur 2016 which he had missed for the last few years. His insights owe much to his buddies in the “right” places. He would like to extend a special thanks to all the people he met during a very busy time, and opened their doors to welcome him. |
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