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Jugal-Bandhi
By Team vino india
It was a WhatsApp video invite for a Jugal-Bandhi of a wine flight of 5 varietals from Chateau Ste Michelle by David Andrews paired with an Indian menu by chef Chiquita at Gulati Spice Market. Black ties were forbidden in this not-to-be-missed gathering of friends – to drink and to laugh.
 
Madhulika and David
Madhulika and David
 
David Andrews, Division Manager Asia Pacific for Ste Michelle Wine Estates was in Delhi to present the wines, which have been available in India through Brindco Sales. Madhulika Dhall of La Cave (introduced in vino india September 2015) stood in company. Gulati Spice Market is establishing a reputation in the world of wine, as the Swiss trained couple, Sumit and Chef Chiquita, are very passionate restaurateurs.
It was a chance for vino india Chief Executive Rajiv Singhal to dust off the notes he had from his lunch with the very charming Mary Kae in the “château” as part of the Cochran Fellowship that he was awarded in August-September 2001.
With a round of lovely canapés to go round as we waited for the offending late-comers, the wine was quite refreshing. As guests sat down to free-seating, David kept the proceedings alive with his anecdotes and one liners as he stood to present the wines with Madhulika.
About the Winery
The CSM Estate is located in the Columbia Valley of Washington State on the west coast of the US, which is one of the oldest of the 13 AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) of the region. Since 1934, CSM prides itself as being the “founding winery of Washington”. The region is blessed with an optimal eco system of natural water resources, ample sunlight and some of the oldest vines of the ‘new world’. David shared with the gathering that, as opposed to California which is characterized by warm climate similar to Italy and Spain, Washington wines are closer in style to those from cold climate such as France and Germany.
 
 
The Dinner
It was at the dinner that the implications of the invite became clearer. Chef Chiquita chose not to tinker with her authentic Indian cuisine to accentuate the wines (as most do). What perhaps was implied in the invite was that the pairing of the food during the dinner would be as unpretentious as possible. The 5 varietals showed the width of affordable and good value American wines, and for once the dinner visualized the restaurants average customer ordering these on any regular day. Here is how they worked (Retail prices ex Delhi):
Château Ste Michelle Sauvignon Blanc 2013 (₹ 3430) – Crisp and aromatic with a complex stone fruits palate. Refreshing summer wine that paired well with Chettinad spiced grilled river sole with burnt garlic and coconut curry leaf crumble, matching the complex aromas and intense flavours.
Château Ste Michelle Chardonnay 2012 (₹ 2740) – Gently aromatic, mouth filling and buttery with an element of freshness. Paired with the rather chilli hot Udaipur ka Bhuna Kukda with Missi Roti (roast chick with gram flour flat bread), it was a perfect antidote and showed a lovely match.
Château Ste Michelle Merlot 2012 (₹ 2750) – Fruity, juicy, spicy wine that was served with the Burrah Kebab with Anaar Raita (clay oven slow cooked lamb ribs with pomegranate curd). This was the star pairing of the evening with many re-serves requested.
Château Ste Michelle Syrah 2012 (₹ 2320) – Ripe aromas of red fruits highlighted with spice and by a lingering palate.
Château Ste Michelle Riesling 2013 (₹ 2190) – Intensely aromatic nose of tropical fruits, hydrocarbons and a luscious off-dry palate. David announced that CSM pride themselves on their Rieslings and this was a good example.
 
The wine line up
The wine line up
 
The Syrah and the Riesling were served with the Patila Gosht (open pot roasted lamb) and Dum ka Murgh with Palak ki Roomali (slow cooked chicken with spinach stuffed thin flat bread). At our table, we decided to go experimental, and tried it with the Burrah Kebab as well. Both worked quite well, and that in our understanding was because we were in splits during this course – the conversation at our table was so explosive.
The wines were paired with Indian cuisine and the result was a multitude of flavours/ textures ranging from subtle to intense, delicate to robust and austere to unctuous. This emphasized the suitability of the wines to authentic Indian cuisine with the real flavours of spice, and how misplaced the notion of “spice” was in the wine world. The Jugal-Bandhi was a hit – each player had played its part!
Team vino india were invited to this dinner by Sumit Gulati.
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