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The New "Nouvelle"
By Rajiv Singhal
"This is a sit-down dinner you wouldn’t want to miss", read the invitation from the globetrotter journalist Rupali Dean. At Q'la, in the vicinity of the majestic Qutub Minar, the menu for the evening was prepared by the (very) talented Chef Priyam Chatterjee and the wines were paired by co-owner and wine expert Prateek Arora.
 
Prateek Arora and Chef Priyam Chatterjee
Prateek Arora and Chef Priyam Chatterjee
A shower had left Delhi cool enough for us to be received in the courtyard with canapes, that gave a glimpse of the "riot" that was to follow. As if Chef Priyam has an artistic license and a license to know no boundaries!
The first plate, Watermelon Medium Rare, was testimony. “I didn’t see tuna on the menu” and “A tuna lookalike” were the gasps at our table. Chef Bakshish Dean, the host and an inspiration for Chef Priyam, was at our table and shared insights of how this stupendous effort with a watermelon made it to our plates – slow baked for about 2 hours on a low setting of about 45° and vigorously torched to give the skin texture! Picture perfect – and tasted delicious with the liberally sprinkled sea salt and thick soya and tea sauce.
Watermelon Medium Rare • Roasted Corn-fed Chicken
Watermelon Medium Rare • Roasted Corn-fed Chicken
I asked the chef how he managed to create such delicacies. “Sleepless nights and single life”, he’s sooo charming.
The next course is the Roasted Corn-fed Chicken (which gets a measured feed as the chef wants), with Truffle and Curry Butter, Sauce Supreme and Purslane. Chef Priyam highlighted the high quality of ingredients he used, “the chicken on your plate received a special measured feed” and the time to table “freshness is so important, the food must come to you within minutes”.
The very thoughtful “Memories of a Sandwich” was a Chicken Parfait oozing from a seemingly eaten Gruyere Brioche. The menu was already so elaborate, that the chef special “Life on Mars”, a Parmesan Crisp on Duck Mousse, was met with “I’ll explode” reactions.
Memories of a Sandwich • Roasted Parmesan Crisp on Duck Mousse
Memories of a Sandwich • Roasted Parmesan Crisp on Duck Mousse
The Snapper, Coriander Cream, Jade Sauce and Swiss Chards was based on the five shades of chlorophyll! Chef Priyam spoke of the influence of Jackson Pollock and his monumental painting – no brush used. A quick look around the table – the design appeared cloned - fascinating. The mains were Braised Lamb, Cumin Jus and Hazelnut Powder. “When I plate, there are no regrets”, Chef Priyam signs off with utmost humility!
Snapper, Coriander Cream, Jade Sauce and Swiss Chards • Signature Chocolate
Snapper, Coriander Cream, Jade Sauce and Swiss Chards • Signature Chocolate
As he served the Signature Chocolate, Chef Priyam let his hair down and took off his Valrhona apron. Indeed, it was based on seven crus of this legendary chocolatier and truly divine!
The courses that were served (to near perfection) took us on a culinary journey that combined imagination with skill. So much so, that maybe even the wine was content to be the onlooker – not often does it find itself in the company of such exalted food. The Chilean Hemisferio was very welcome with the lamb and the Rhone Parallele 45 white was a lovely match with the chicken.
The wines
Paul Jaboulet Aîné Paralléle 45 Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2015 France
Paul Jaboulet Aîné Paralléle 45 Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2015 France
Pale straw colour with green tinge.
Quite aromatic.
Floral bouquet.
Citrus fruits on the palate.
Nicely rounded.
Clean and fresh.
M.A.N. Pinotage W.O. Coastal Region 2015 South Africa
M.A.N. Pinotage W.O. Coastal Region 2015 South Africa
Ruby with a violet rim.
Bit shy, it opens up with aromas of red berries.
The fruity palate is laced with vanilla from the oak and cinnamon.
Medium body.
Sharp tannins need time.
Miguel Torres Hemisferio Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 Chile
Miguel Torres Hemisferio Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 Chile
Intense ruby colour.
Aromas of the forest floor and spice.
Juicy dark fruits and berries on the palate.
Rounded tannins.
Well balanced.
Lingering.
Rajiv Singhal thanks Rupali Dean for the invitation to this special evening.
O T H E R     S T O R I E S
Australia with an Indian Accent
FINE Anniversary
Master Sommeliers from India