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| A Tradition of Italian Excellence |
| By Rajiv Singhal |
| In the winter of 2012, Sumit Sehgal of Prestige Wines & Spirits had introduced me to the very charming Pio Boffa, whose great grand maternal father had founded Pio Cesare in 1881. Pio’s roaring laugh that evening was infectious and the audience lapped up every moment and every drop of the wines. |
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Pio Boffa and Sumit Sehgal |
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| Nothing had changed in the vintages that had passed since. Recently, I was invited to the Le Cirque table that Sumit hosted to welcome Pio, who had flown in for a 24 hour visit to Delhi. |
| No sign of any fatigue – Pio was in his element – candid and honest. As we sipped the refreshing and aromatic Arneis, he said “our culture is not about indulgence in alcohol, but an indulgence in the pleasure of matching food with wine.” |
| Pio Cesare remains a ‘strictly’ family owned small producer of wines (400,000 bottles annually) in the region of Piemonte. The company has depended closely on the personality of the different generations, who have passed on knowledge and tradition to maintain the continuity in style. |
| Pio shared that a very important part of the family’s efforts is dedicated to the grape. And to shock many, Pio announced that winemaking was not so important in the region. He believed that the most important skill of the wine maker was to interpret what mother nature had done in the fields! |
| “As a family we like to put our fingers (and feet) in every aspect of making the wine – from the vine to the wine (and the countries that we export to). We don’t follow fads or trends but like to be loyal to the family style that has developed in 135 years and which we hope to maintain in the future.” |
| Pio is guilty that he has not spent much time in India where the culture is sensible to good food, but he is trying. “I landed at midnight yesterday and leave at midnight, but I am convinced that I need to constantly plant the seeds that I am sure will produce results.” |
| He thinks that Italian wines will always be seen as complicated – the region, the wine, the producer, the grape, the classifications…. But, like the now-important export markets (US and Canada) show, these hurdles can be overcome. |
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The Pio Cesare line up |
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| As we sat down to the 6 course meal that Chef Diego Martinelli had laid out, Pio paid tribute. “The best ambassadors of our wines around the world are the chefs who sharpened their skills in Italy”. Chef Diego has worked with Pio before in Asia, and took a bow with flavours that brought out the best expression in the wines. |
| The seared yellow fin tuna was served with the Gavi 2014, a white wine that Pio tells us is his summer wine when he is relaxing on the deck overlooking his vineyards, not doing too much! |
| The history of red winemaking in the region dates back almost 2000 years to the Romans. It is here that Nebbiolo is at home! The Barbera d'Alba 2013 was served with the mascarpone cheese ravioli to showcase the ‘other’ grape. |
| The much-awaited flight of the Barolo and Barbaresco (100% Nebbiolo) was led by the 2011 Barolo – a classic with lovely texture, expressive fruit and evolved tannin – paired with the fondant leek risotto and braised lamb shank. The 2011 Barbaresco – fine, elegant with ripe fruit, subtle and less aggressive tannins – paired with the confit of duck. |
| As a surprise, Pio had carried a treat – the 2004 Barolo, which he had taken out from the family cellars with his mother’s permission. A mouth filling, powerful and complex wine, refined, rounder and ethereal. It charmed me completely – the King! I did feel that the wine had more ageing potential. Pio confirmed, “20 more years”. And the Italian in Pio could not resist asking his guests, “the wine that is so old but still youthful is attractive, what about the winemaker?” |
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The 2004 Barolo |
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| It had been a long evening. As the caramelised fig tart with thyme white chocolate ice-cream was presented, Pio was getting calls from his airline to make it to the airport with some time to spare. In closing, Pio emphasised that, with a fine balance between expertise and experience, Pio Cesare made wines that preserve the integrity of the grape and the region to share amongst friends. |
| There is no vernacular equivalent of cheers in India. A new cheer phrase was heard through Le Cirque ever so often that evening – Pio (from the hindi word for drink)!!! |
| Rajiv Singhal was a guest of Sumit Sehgal of Prestige Wines & Spirits. |
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