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Michelin Stars at The Oberoi Gurgaon
By Rajiv Singhal
“Build a life you don’t need a vacation from”. I can not but resonate with these words of the three Michelin star chef Georges Blanc.
 
The eponymous restaurant
The eponymous restaurant
Someone famously said that a 1 Michelin star restaurant encourages diners to visit. With 2 Michelin stars, luxury gourmets detour their itineraries. 3 Michelin star restaurants are destinations!!
We couldn’t but join in for the presentation of a special degustation menu celebrating the finest French cuisine of the 3 star Georges Blanc from Vonnas at threesixtyone° at the Oberoi Gurgaon.
"Georges Blanc took over the family business from his mother Paulette at the age of 25 and transformed a modest family inn into a Relais & Chateaux luxury property in what became Village Blanc – the gourmand village – the centre of Vonnas. His restaurant Georges Blanc was awarded the coveted 3rd star from Guide Michelin in 1981.
Chefs Frederic Desmurs and Olivier Chardigny
Georges Blanc Executive Chef Frederic Desmurs co-ordinated this blink-and-you-miss-it Gurgaon outpost with Executive Chef Manish Sharma, with whom I still recall a very intense first conversation around champagne and food at Udaivilas many years ago. The special menu created in faraway India was based entirely on the classical dishes served at the restaurant Georges Blanc in Vonnas, where creativity pokes traditionalism in French cuisine. Chef Frederic shared with us the emphasis on ingredients, method of preparation and fresh seasonal produce so as not to compromise the traditions.
Without the option of a wine pairing, we chose to stay safe with a favourite – Champagne Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Brut Yellow Label.
The menu was designed to spark delight with each plate! We sat down to the first plate, Gruyére Gougeres with something that was a bit unusual for this time of the day – hand rolled French butter croissants – soft inside and crisp golden outside with incredibly flavourful sea salt and smoked hazelnut butter. Divinely flaky.
Next up was the Green Pea and Mint soup (infused with a sherry vinegar) for the vegetarians and Cured Norwegian Salmon with Citrus Zest, Ginger, Coriander. The salmon and champagne did not need each other – they did alright together but were just fine on their own.
The next plate was Chartreuse of Asparagus and Ratatouille for the vegetarians and Scallop and Shrimp, Citronnade, Beetroot, Honey. The champagne brought out more flavours in the scallops and shrimps specially when coated in the (a bright pink) beetroot paste.
The traditional break in courses with a very creamy Raspberry and Champagne Sorbet with an extra and very generous dollop of Moet et Chandon champagne. The champagne cut through the cream just like a knife into butter.
The main plate presented a dilemma between Seabass Marinière with Herbs and Lobster cooked with Yellow Wine Butter and Morels; Roast New Zealand Lamb Loin with Truffle Mash Potatoes, Vegetables and Smoked Butter Jus; and Chicken Traditional with Cream and Vonnaissienes Crêpes. Staying with tradition and Manager Aditya’s recommendation, it was the chicken – a dish that hadn’t changed on the Vonnas menu for the last 30 years. The Vonnassienes crêpes (potatoes, eggs and cream) accompaniment from the chef’s grandmothers’ recipe, clinched it. Chef Georges Blanc works with the appellation origin controllée Bresse Chicken, a free range bird fed with a special diet that has short legs and big breasts. The pairing with champagne was exquisite and perfectly complementing. The chunky morels on their own with champagne gave the chicken pairing stiff competition.
A French meal without wine is called breakfast. A French meal without cheese has not yet been served! A runny get-your-fingers-in-it delicious Brie, Bleu de Bresse, Parsley coated Chèvre, Comté and Port Salut was on the mini cheeseboard for two. Many calories in, but very enjoyable with the champagne – which allowed me to dig into almost the entire platter without realising it!
Lemon and Coconut Tart for desserts was to-die-for, and I almost asked for a second helping. But glad I didn’t, the Banana and Passion Fruit petit fours gave similar pleasure. For once, the single origin dark chocolate didn’t work its magic on me.
A meal that truly reflected the chefs character, personality and sensibility. And well executed.
The General Manager of the Oberoi Gurgaon very kindly invited us for this unmissable evening.
O T H E R     S T O R I E S
Champagne @ LaLiT
Michelin Upstairs
Tuscan ‘Cashmere’