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| Voyageurs, Soccer-stars, Master-blenders |
| By Rajiv Singhal |
| Portugal is the land of travellers, discoverers and voyagers. Since the early 15th century, Portuguese traders took to sea to explore and establish markets in not-yet-discovered territories on the globe. The history of grape growing in what is today Portugal dates back to 2000 B.C., and the special relationship with England and the expanding Portuguese Empire helped the wines from Portugal to find favour with consumers around the world. |
| Portugal is home to a heritage of more than 250 indigenous grape varieties, in which the Portuguese have kept their faith – the Touriga Nacional is the best known, and is flanked by the Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Baga and Trincadeira – they have been safeguarded through the centuries. Facing the Atlantic Ocean on the Iberian Peninsula, the country is exposed to Atlantic, Mediterranean and Continental climatic influences. |
| “A World of Difference” is how ViniPortugal, the inter-professional trade association of Portugal, describes this very traditional wine country. Whilst retaining their historic and cultural identity, Portuguese wine-makers are “Masters of Blending” as they highlight the diversity of wine country in their unique wines. |
| Modern day Portugal, of course, is better known as the home of soccer star, Christiano Ronaldo. Since its accession to the European Union in 1986, an inflow of funds have helped the country re-build its wine industry, and other industries. Most important, and perhaps unnoticed, the entire length and breadth of the country has been mapped by highways creating a huge impact on accessibility of the regions. |
| This summer, I accepted a very tempting invitation to visit wine country in Portugal. What I did not realise is how much I would be able to take in in 5 days! A diligently planned schedule allowed wide coverage of the wine regions – and this is Part 1 of my immersion into the Wines of Portugal. |
| Quinta do Monte d’Oiro (ALENQUER) |
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A modern touch at Quinta do Monte d’Oiro |
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| José Manuel Bento dos Santos built his rather generous bank reserves in metals. A gastronome and true connoisseur of Côtes du Rhône wines, he acquired a plot of 42 ha in Alenquer, just 20km from the ocean. On lime and clay soils sheltered by mountains, the first Syrah in Portugal was planted from massal selection following extensive studies by experts from the University of Jerusalem. In 2006, a transition to organic was initiated and today about 100,000 bottles are produced. In the vineyards, canopy management is focussed upon, cereals crack the soils, the mulch layer allows for minimum watering. The labels offer a wealth of information. The wines age in an old shed at ground level – in silence and darkness – the silence disturbed only by chirping birds and the darkness flashed by my camera. |
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| Quinta do Monte d’Oiro, Reserva 2011: A blend of hand harvested Syrah (94%) and Viognier (6%) aged 18 months in French oak. Aromatic ripe fruit, with discreet and integrated oak. Velvety tannins and a firm and very long finish. The back label describes the terroir as privileged – the slopes are covered in unique golden colours at sunset – since the 17th century the parcel is known as the “Hill of Gold”. |
| Casa Santos Lima (VINHO REGIONAL LISBOA) |
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The Indian flag at Casa Santos Lima |
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| A family-owned company that announced my welcome with the Indian flag fluttering alongside Portugal at the entrance. A former banker, José Luís Santos Lima Oliveira da Silva, invested in and modernised the wine assets that had been established by his great-grandfather at the turn of the 19th century. That Portugal produces wine is not a very well-known fact, that it produces good wine, even less. Producing 14 million bottles, the focus is on value-for-money wines which “surprise the customer”. Casa Santos Lima is at home in Alenquer, where around 250ha are held in high-yielding parcels that are being developed for their oeno-tourism potential. Expansion into four other regions of Portugal and lesser dependence on manual systems has catalysed growth. A multi-brand portfolio, 90% of the production from very modern wineries is exported to 50 countries – including India, where importer, Prestige Wines & Spirits, is readying to launch a selection. |
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| Lab Red 2014: A blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Touriga Nacional. Ruby red, pleasingly aromatic with plums and dark berries on the palate. Spicy leanings. Four months ageing in oak barrels lend fine tannins that dominate. |
| Herdade do Esporão (ALENTEJO) |
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The historical Esporão Tower in the Historic Centre |
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| The geographical boundaries of Herdade do Esporão, established in 1267, have been practically unchanged since. The historical Esporão Tower has stood watch over what is now around 700ha of vineyards, on which 194 grape varietals have been planted. Project Organic is under way – 80ha are certified – aim is 100% by 2020. The rich bio-diversity is home to many interesting species of flora and fauna, traces of which can be found in the produce. Dense forests highlight the rich eco-system in the semi-arid territory. A large dam area controlling the water supply from the Degebe river, makes for a beautiful landscape that is enjoyed by around 30,000 oeno-tourists. More than 1,500 barrels (mix of American/French; and New/1 year/2 year) line the sides of a large tunnel that seems to be waiting for the next metro train to stop! |
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| Esporão Private Selection Red 2012: A blend of Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez, Syrah. A deep colour. Textures on the palate are intense and complex. Well-balanced tannins that doesn’t leap out of the glass. Rich on aromas, and creaminess from the long term ageing. A classic Alentejo Garrafeira – solid structure, personality and complexity from the selection of the finest grapes from our terroir and the creativity of the winemaker. The label brings Portuguese art into the culture of wine-making – 2012 was illustrated by plastic artist João Queiroz – Pedro Proença’s rendition on the 1999 hurt sensibilities and was recalled (top right). |
| Adega Mayor (ALTO ALENTEJO) |
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Simple construction contrasts with the complexity housed within the winery |
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| Born in Campo Maior, not far from the Spanish border, Rui Nabeiro (born 1931) built an internationally renowned coffee empire that diversified into a very successful multi-sector conglomerate that employs 2500 people. Comendador Rui’s son, Joao Manuel, welcomed me to the family home – the 1 million bottle facility that ships labels to four continents (a rather large majority of that is to Angola). The region’s weather conditions and terroir were found to be ideal for grapes, and in 1997, the first vines were planted. The estate has 350 ha under control. Architect Álvaro Siza Vieira designed the straight-line winery (with only one curve) with a south-west entry and 9 metres height and 1 metre thickness. Carrying the passion through the generations, Adega Mayor is administered by grand-daughter, Rita Nabeiro who contrasts the fruity exuberance with the complexity of the blends and barrel ageing and whose detailing in design shows up on the very elaborate labels. |
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| Adega Mayor Grande Reserva Pai Chão, 2011: Selected hand-picked bunches of Alicante Bouschet and Touriga Nacional are fermented in inox and aged 12 months in bottle after 24 months in French oak. Garnet colour. Fresh and aromatic with hint of spice. Full bodied and well-structured wine. Persistent finish. A tribute to Comendador Rui, Pai Chão, shows the passion of the land, Campo Maior. "Pai Chão does not happen every day". |
| Rajiv Singhal found himself in Portugal over the summer to tour wine country. He thanks AICEP, Portugal for the perfect itinerary for a perfect week and for kindly supporting this oeno-adventure! |
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