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The Art of Artadi
By Ravi Joshi
Just as spring was blossoming, a western climatic disturbance had Delhizens rush to retrieve their woollens. It appeared to me that even the rain gods were delighted to welcome a special visitor from Spain – Artadi.
 
H.E. Gustavo de Aristegui with Juan Carlos and Paloma Jiménez
 
The niche in which Artadi wines are held, was explained to Delhi's wine community by the Spanish Ambassador to India, H.E. Gustavo de Aristegui. He told us that he was privileged to meet Juan Carlos López de Lacalle, a winemaker whom he had admired all along. The tasting was held at his official residence in New Delhi and just three wines were presented – one of them from the same pedigree as a Robert Parker 100 pointer (for its 2004 vintage, though) and two other illustrious examples.
Artadi started operation in 1985 in the famous Spanish wine country of La Rioja Alavesa. Following their successful run, they expanded their business production to the Navarra (in 1996) and Alicante (in 1999) regions. Today, Artadi produces close to 8,00,000 bottles which are being sold in USA, Europe as well as in Asian countries, such as Japan, Hong Kong and Malaysia.
The winery was awarded "Best Cellar for the year 2014" by Guía Peñín – a famous and the most comprehensive wine guide of Spain. Juan Carlos, owner and winemaker of Artadi, told us that ratings are a welcome validation of their well entrenched belief that the value of great wines is closely related to the soil and the people!
The New Delhi tasting was intended to introduce Artadi, and its wines, to specialized media, trade and hospitality professionals in the city. Three DOC Rioja wines were brought in, one of which was a gem.
Viñas de Gain White 2010
Grape: Viura (Macabeo)
ABV: 13.5%
A pale lemon coloured wine with citrus, floral and some nutty aromas. On the palate, it was surprisingly high on acidity (almost mouth watering), considering its 5 year vintage. The flavours ranged from peaches, green apple to oak and a hint of minerality. Though most white wines might be best consumed young, this one appeared age worthy for at least the next 5 years – I felt that it was too early to appreciate this wine.
Viñas de Gain Red 2012
Grape: Tempranillo
ABV: 14.5%
A deep ruby red wine with expressive red fruit notes, a medium body, pleasant tannins and a spicy finish. A wine with good complexity with well integrated components. A versatile red that will not let you down with or without food.
Viña El Pisón Red 2012
Grape: Tempranillo
ABV: 14.5%
A ruby red wine with a lightly faded rim. Complex aromas of blackberries, aged cheese and sweet spice. Full bodied on the palate, with a firm structure, round tannins and blackberries and black currant flavours. An oaky overtone added another layer of complexity, and the wine lingered on the palate with unabashed élan.
The Viña El Pisón was the pièce de résistance of the evening. This wine was being raved about even before the tasting started. The reason? Its 2004 vintage had a perfect 100 Robert Parker score. Other vintages have been consistently close to the perfect score, besides other accolades. This wine finds its provenance in a small bio-dynamically cultivated vineyard of 2.4 hectares that sits on one of the highest elevations in La Rioja. I felt that even if this wine was tasted blind, it’s exclusive pedigree was unmistakable.
I had a chat with Paloma Jiménez, the Export Area Manager, and asked about Artadi's plans for India. She said that through this introductory tasting, Artadi would like to increase the awareness of their wines with the Indian consumer. They plan several educational actions such as tasting rooms, wine and dine events and are looking to identify important people from India to visit their facilities.
Would Artadi focus on retail or "on premise"? Paloma and Juan Carlos think that they are both necessary, since they complement each other. "On the one hand, hotels and restaurants take very good care of wine as a luxury item linked to gastronomy. But on the other hand, the number of wine-lovers are increasing with every passing day and they like to buy wine at retail shops to share them with family and friends at home. Thus, we believe both channels are important."
I got the impression that Artadi had a very optimistic strategy for the very difficult conditions in India, even if their wines won’t come cheap. So I asked Juan Carlos how he might succeed where many have met their Waterloo. Juan Carlos emphasised that wine is not just related to the material aspect. It embodies emotions fuelled by passion and sensations. Artadi was planning to negate its late entry in the market by sharing the distinct value that their wines bring. "We intend to make the Indian consumer of wine realize that wine is the result of History, Tradition, Identity, Personality, Passion. And we try to reflect all of these factors in each glass of our wines", he elaborated.
I could notice the intense passion for his wines in Juan Carlos' eyes. The ball will now be in the court of the Indian consumer to notice it as well.
An invitation from the Spanish Ambassador is always special. Ravi Joshi was present to welcome the visiting winemaker and enjoy the Artadi selection. Bouquets or brickbats, please let us know what you think and do tell us where vino india could improve. Email us at info@vinoindia.in
 
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