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| Wine Spotlight - South Africa |
| By Kamal Malik |
| A first ever trip to South Africa took me through all the major and upcoming wine regions to cover more than 30 wineries the famous, the boutique, the unknown and the most esoteric. Over the years, I have been privileged to taste fine selections from South Africa. I am convinced about the potential of the wines of South Africa, but when you see the passion for excellence running in these amazing vineyards and their winemakers I am certain that it will only get better over years! |
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Kamal Malik in Cape Town |
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| South Africa has some of the oldest vineyards in the new world. Their wines were being famously exported to France in the 18th century to quench the thirst of Emperor Napoleon. South African wineries lost their way during the Apartheid era and are trying their best to catch up on the lost times, ever since. The wine revolution in Swartland, Elgin and Elim and other newer plantings in cooler sites are great examples of their efforts being rewarded by Mother Nature. |
| The task from vino india to restrict the list to 10 was tough sadly many great examples did not make the cut. My countdown list leads you to my BEST. |
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10. Springfield Estate Work of Time,
Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Robertson
A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Silky texture with evolved aromas of spices, dried flowers, complex mixed berries and herbs. Leather, tar and smoke mingled with the bouquet to make it rather interesting. Really a work of time – a masterpiece (and its still at No 10). |
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9. Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2012, Constantia
A best expression of Muscat de Frontignac takes you through a journey of aromas and flavours of rose, acacia, fennel, apricot, grape, strawberry, peach and a lot more which I stopped counting after a while. Balanced with minerality and the oaky complexity, this is a young wine with immense ageing potential. |
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8. Reyneke Reserve Blanc 2013, Stellenbosch
This is the pioneer of biodynamics in South Africa, and although I was amazed with all his wines that I tasted this was the highlight. A barrel fermented Sauvignon Blanc that had been aged for 15 months. Ripe peaches, pineapples and white flowers showed with a savoury minerality coming to the fore with creamy, tangy, buttery complexity. Deep rooted complexity and rounded mouthfeel. Amazing length on the palate. |
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7. Mullineux Syrah 2012, Swartland
A classic syrah that reminded of a top Cτte Rotie or even a fine Cornas. Blueberries, spice, pepper, flowers and cherries that showed as rustic yet elegant. An amazingly long finish, it is a must-have for wine lovers. |
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6. De Toren Fusion V 1999, Stellenbosch
This proponent of Bordeaux blends showed us an example of the transformation of a wine over the years. The wine possessed all the complexities that a great wine should offer. The savoury sweet mouthfeel was accentuated by notes of currants, mint, prunes, truffles, dried herbs, tar and leather. Silky tannins and a very good balance. The wine for those who question the ageing ability of new world wines. |
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5. Iona One Man Band 2009, Elgin
Mr. Gunn, the winery owner, described the wine to be a blend of everything red that he had in his vineyards Syrah, Cabernet, Mourvedre, Merlot and some Viognier. I did not expect much, given the cool climate in Elgin did not seem to be kind for these tannic varieties. But when I tasted the wine, I realized how wrong I was. It was one of the most harmonious blends that I ever experienced. The wine showed elegance, balance, silky smooth texture and an unparalleled homogeneity between all its different components. A tasting note cannot do justice to describe this wine properly raspberries, cherries, game, spice, dried herbs, pepper accentuate the wine. A complex nose and silky mouthfeel, the wine is ageworthy. In summary, a slightly eccentric and characterful wine. |
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4. Boekenhoutskloof Porseleinberg Syrah 2012, Swartland
An intensely fruity wine that shows a lovely balance between fruit, complexity and alcohol. This wine could be an inspiration for South African wines that are usually typecast as too big and alcoholic. Traces of dark berries, cherry, spice, chocolate and pepper in the wine. Should have a long ageing potential. |
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3. Reyneke Reserve Syrah 2012, Stellenbosch
Pure silk. I was mesmerised, and am finding it difficult to share the wine with you I stopped taking notes as I got lost in this wine. This silky complexity matched that of Guigal's La Mouline, but this had more power and structure. Perfumed, almost Burgundian nose, with flowers, pepper, truffles, prunes, dark cherries, currants, smoke, tar and spices. Fantastic balance. |
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2. Mullineux Straw Wine Chenin Blanc 2013, Swartland
Syrupy ripe concentration and mouth coating consistency that was balanced by the high acidity (280 grams per litre of residual sugar with 11 grams acidity). The best in the world could take lessons on balance and complexity. The wine shows raisins, honey, marmalade, caramel, ripe peaches, apricots, citrus rinds, aam papad (dried mango), roses and white flowers. |
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1. Storm Wines Moyas Pinot Noir 2013,
Hamel en Aarde Valley
Light berries with red cherries, strawberries, raspberries and roses. Light silky tannins and almost invisible oak help the wine to develop into more than the sum of its parts. Fragrant and complex with a long ageing potential and good length and aftertaste. A great wine in the making I would rank it the best Pinot Noir from South Africa, that could compete with the finest in the world. |
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| I am convinced that the wines I tasted, specially the gems I have listed, could compete with the best in the world and present a serious challenge if not emerge winners. My binoculars of inquisitiveness were rewarded by the importer in Maldives, who has brought over the gems that I identified. |
| In conclusion, I feel that the overall quality of South African wines is quite high. Even their most basic wines give the consumer enough pleasure to justify the price paid. Complexity is the norm here, wines not only show exuberant fruit but also the minerally earthiness, that is not often found in new world warm climate wines. They are not trying to copy any established wine area, but are carving out a niche for themselves. The wines were uniquely South African. |
| Kamal Malik is the Head Sommelier at The Conrad, Maldives. He was sent by the hotel on a mission to South Africa, to find new juice for his 1500+ labels list to keep it more interesting! Bouquets or brickbats, please let us know what you think and do tell us where vino india could improve. Email us at info@vinoindia.in |
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