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Masterclass by a Master
By Radhika Puar
Liam Steevenson grew up in a wine family, but chose to pursue a first degree in History. Just before his graduation, on a trip to the vineyards, he claims that he fell in love with wine and its culture. In a short span thereafter, he qualified for the prestigious Master of Wine in 2004 – he was just 27 years old.
 
Liam Steevenson MW
Liam Steevenson MW
 
Liam has focussed his activities in his home market – the UK – through his own company, Red & White Wine Solutions. He is the wine buyer for the retail giant, Waitrose, and in India, he is involved in some wine education work.
I had first met Liam some time in 2015 at a dinner, when we were able to spend some time discussing the depth and breadth that Riesling wines can display depending on the soil and the climate. At the recently concluded International Vine and Food Experience curated by Keith Edgar at The Taj Mahal New Delhi, Liam presented Astrolabe wines from New Zealand.
 
International Vine and Food Experience at The Taj Mahal New Delhi
International Vine and Food Experience at The Taj Mahal New Delhi
 
Through four glasses of wine – two whites and two reds – he took us through the differences in body, texture, aromas and palate.
'Province' Sauvignon Blanc – a white wine with a very expressive floral nose of white flowers and a sharp freshness and zesty minerality on the palate.
Durvillea Chardonnay – another white which was not as expressive on the nose as the Sauvignon Blanc, but had aromas of stone fruit, and some ripe melon. On the palate, it was richer and much fattier in texture than the Sauvignon Blanc, which Liam pointed out was its defining character.
Durvillea Pinot Noir – a red wine that had a light, transparent ruby colour. Liam drew attention to this as he described the wines as “red wine for white wine lovers”. An aromatic elegant wine with intense fruitiness and soft tannins.
'Province' Pinot Noir – the last red which was considerably richer, fuller and more powerful than the previous wine, despite being the same grape. Liam chose the two wines based on the Pinot Noir to show the difference in nose, taste and body that results from the addition of oak. Juicy berries that are nuanced by earthy and spicy tone with a lasting finish.
Liam addressed the many wine beginners in his audience when he said that wine rarely smelt of grapes, and that the aromas expressed by the wine were usually very different to what one experienced on the palate.
When asked about the kind of Indian food he would pair his wines with, Liam admitted that what was considered “Indian food” in the UK was considerably different to the “real” thing. And he felt that, in general, the best pairings were a result of experimentation.
One in the audience rose to say that he had found cheap wines when travelling overseas to be very good and expensive ones to be not worth the hype. And asked if Liam thought that an expensive wine was truly a superior wine to a cheaper one. Liam replied that what mattered was the enjoyment one drew from the wine and not the cost of the bottle – bravo!
 
Audience interaction
Audience interaction
 
I managed to speak to the much in-demand Liam, who shared how much he enjoyed working in India, how friendly the people were and how he chanced upon the incredible Jungle Crows Rugby charity in Kolkata. “I can’t help but fall in love with the country, its beauty and its people – India is an assault on the senses. Wine-wise, India is fascinating and quality is appreciated. Logistics are hard to manage, but the closer we work the easier it gets.” He lamented about taxation as the biggest challenge which he hopes will ease with time (?) but believes that success for wine will come through education!
Radhika Puar paid her entry ticket for the International Vine and Food Experience, to attend the Liam Steevenson MW Masterclass.
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Masterclass by a Master