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Wine Exotica
By Kamal Malik. I was on mission in Hong Kong to identify some wines for my ever so demanding customers – wines that are original and unique and even from unknown lands. With my binoculars of inquisitiveness, I zeroed in on some special labels. I am not at liberty to say whether these will find their way to my wine list, but I want to share my finds exclusively with the readers of vino india.
As a sommelier, I have to constantly identify new avenues to please my customers' wine senses (and believe me, they are so knowledgeable, that it is tough) and also my own. In the current day, technology has made the wine world very homogenous and lists are becoming rather predictable. I need some lighthouses to show the right path, and help find the originality of taste, which I could reflect on my lists.
Hong Kong is firmly establishing itself as the wine capital of the East. It is frequently visited not only by the reputed wine producers and the wine elite, but also those in interesting upcoming regions who are trying to attract some eyeballs for their wines. As if an auspicious omen, I met Steven Spurrier, who in his quest to find beyond the usual, made Californian wines famous in his legendary tasting. With my binoculars of inquisitiveness and feeling a bit adventurous, I launched my mission to find the unknown yet enthusiastic wine producers showcasing their hard work in the vineyards and the winery. And, I did find some gems!
Cayas, by Jean Rene Germanier
Wine 1. Wines from Switzerland, a country better known for its cheese and chocolates, I had always taken lightly. But took the chance. Guess what, "why not" is the force behind all discovery - it was amazing! Jean Rene Germanier is a winemaker whose family has been making wines and schnapps in Valais (the largest Swiss wine region located in around the Rhône valley in the lap of Alps) for more than a century.

Wine: Cayas, by Jean Rene Germanier

Grape: Syrah (Red)

Impression: I could have never expected to craft a red wine in this cool climate, definitely not Syrah which is a bold, powerful and tannic varietal. But I was told to expect vibrancy and freshness from cool climate. The wine had the classic notes of black pepper, medium body, pleasant red fruits and a kiss of oak. Jean Rene pulled it off well.
Tsantali
Wine 2. I am in Greece, which certainly is not a new territory in the wine world. It is one of the oldest wine regions in Europe. However, as the Retsina and the sweet fortified wines fell out of favour, Greek winemaking became "Greek" to the world in past decades. Greek producers recognized this, and began to modernise the industry and tried to re-position their offer. In the flight I tasted, the Malagousia (White) and Agiorgitiko (Red) were too bold for my liking.

Wine: Xinomavro, by Tsantali

Grape: Xinomavro (Red)

Impression: The wine comes from Naoussa – a city in Macedonia famous for its fruit – apples, peaches, apart from grapes. The wine is elegant, with red fruit flavour accompanied by notes of olives, cedar and prunes. The silky spiciness of oak impressed the most.
Gris de Koshu
Wine 3. The biggest catch, however, was reserved for later, across the harbour. At the Peninsula, my sommelier friend (also an Indian) introduced me to a white wine from Japan. Not a Sake, it was a unique grape variety.

Wine: Gris de Koshu by Grace

Grape:Gris de Koshu (White)


Impression: The aromas resembled a fine Chablis, with citrus and white flowers dominating. This was accompanied by crispiness and a lingering minerality on the palate. But what made it special was a certain lush mouth feel that was reminiscent of the famous Sake. A special dry white, and a treat.
Mission accomplished.  
Kamal Malik is the Head Sommelier at The Conrad, Maldives. He was sent by the hotel on mission to Hong Kong to identify some exotic wines for his lists. Bouquets or brickbats, please let us know what you think and do tell us where vino india could improve. Email us at info@vinoindia.in
 
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