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Feting Malbec on its Day |
By Ravi Joshi |
“What’s in a name?” is often heard, but “What’s in a day?”, I was prompted to ask, when an entity like wine is feted, that can (and should) be enjoyed on any day. World Malbec Day is no Valentine’s or Mother’s day, but the essence remains the same – to emphasize the importance of the entity being felicitated. |
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Ambassador H.E. Raúl Ignacio Guastavino and Madame Alejandra de Guastavino |
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The origins of Malbec in Argentina |
The significance of the day goes back to 1853, when the then President of Argentina, Domingo Faustino Sarmiento commissioned a soil expert, Michel Aimé Pouget, to bring new vines that would transform the Argentine wine industry – and he brought Malbec! Malbec originated in and dominated Cahors in South Western France, even if there is evidence of its existence in the 50th Century B.C. in Rome. In the late nineteenth century, the deadly Phylloxera wiped it out (among may others) through vineyards across Europe. Fortunately for wine lovers in subsequent generations, Malbec found refuge in Argentina, which welcomed it with open arms. |
Wine in Argentina |
Argentina is the world’s 8th largest producer and the 11th largest consumer of wine. A majority of the country’s wines are Malbec. Bonard and Torrontés are other popular varietals, besides the international varietals, most prominently the Cabernet Sauvignon. In its phenomenal growth as a wine producing nation, Argentina has had the geographical advantage of being in the correct latitude range (22° - 42°), has a diverse terroir at altitudes ranging from 1000 to 10000ft and has a largely vine disease free environment. Northern, Cuyo and Patagonia are the wine producing regions of Argentina, and Cuyo accounts for more than 95% of the country’s wine production with Mendoza at the forefront with 75%. The wine regions of Argentina are flanked by the Andes (that is also a natural border with Chile) and receive the pristine melting snow as their source for irrigation.Their distance from the Atlantic coast prevents the excess rot causing humidity. |
Destination New Delhi |
Celebrated worldwide since 2011, Malbec World Day is about the grape varietal that is often synonymous with Argentina. And by putting New Delhi on the map, the Ambassador H.E. Raúl Ignacio Guastavino recognises India’s stature as a growing market with very high potential. He invited a group of trade personnel, media and wine enthusiasts to his home on 17th of April, and we were all pampered with personal attention from His Excellency and his wife, Madame Alejandra de Guastavino. Pleasantries and speeches out of the way, the Ambassador opened the tasting to the guests. |
Even if the day was dedicated to Malbec, His Excellency was generous to include a very refreshing and rare in India, Extra Brut Argentinean sparkling wine – he had to fill the gap till we hit the Malbec fervor and in a master move, he pulled out a surprise from his own country to keep the attention span of his guests limited to his wine territory. |
The wines |
In the Malbec offer were ten wines (not surprisingly all from Mendoza), of which four are currently available in India and the balance were from the Ambassador’s personal cellar. First, their generic dégustation profile and the wines (prices ex Delhi). |
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The Malbec Manhattan |
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Aromas: Mostly red fruits but in certain cases black fruits as well. Certain wines had vegetal aromas ranging from bell peppers, mint and truffle. Use of oak rendered spiciness and nuttiness was imparted by virtue of micro oxygenation where large barrel (500 litres) ageing was carried out. Carbonic maceration was also evident in some of the tremendously fruity wines. |
Flavours: A further extension of aroma traits and softening of tannins that was determined by oak use or bottle ageing. However, in a couple of wines, the heavy oak subdued the primary and secondary flavours. |
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Trapiche Vineyards, Malbec (₹1200) and Oak Cask Malbec (₹1300)
Importer: Sula Selections
The grapes are from high sun exposure vineyards, hence a riper character. Oak Cask Malbec has been aged for 12 months in a combination of American and French oak barrels. The wines are easy drinking with dominant red fruit flavours and spice. The Oak Cask version established its touch towards the finish.
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Norton, Reserva 2010 (₹2110) and Reserva 2011 (₹2110)
Importer: Brindco International
The wines are harvested manually at berry level. And then the wine has 12 months French oak ageing and 10 months bottle ageing. Norton is one of the most familiar Malbec labels on Indian shelves. An easy drinking wine that retains its vivacious character on the nose and the palate. The two successive vintages established the style consistency through the years.
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Alpamanta, , Natal andEstate
Source: Ambassador’s Cellar
Organic handpicked grapes, low sulfites, native yeasts, simple labeling. The Estate is put through post fermentation maceration for 7 days and 10 months ageing in French oak barrels that lend it extra complexity. |
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1884, Reservado and Limited Production
Source: Ambassador’s Cellar
For the Reservado, 8 months oak ageing, 70% in French and 30% in American oak. For the LP, 12 months oak ageing, 50% each in French and American oak. And then 24 months bottle ageing.
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Callejon Del Crimen, Reserva and La Infidelidad
Source: Ambassador’s Cellar
For Reserva, 8 months ageing in French oak barrels of 500 litres. For La Infidelidad, 18 months ageing in first use French oak barrels of 500 litres. |
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The wines were accompanied by thoughtfully arranged finger food in Tapas style served through the evening, that allowed for a lot of experimentation. Skewered meats, petit fraîche breads and delectable savouries offered various flavours and textures to enhance the experience. |
I spoke to the Ambassador, who expected Malbec World Day to get even better and bigger in the next years. He feels that the varietal has been very well received in India as the icon of Argentina and on expected lines, Malbec is the most popular Argentine wine in India. More activities that have been planned will only bolster this growing popularity. |
The spirit of Malbec is here to stay. |
As you would expect, vino india is where wine is in India. Ravi Joshi joined the celebrations in Delhi. Please share any feedback with vino india info@vinoindia.in |
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